So, You've Decided to Buy a Track Bike...

[HurricaneGirl]

Okay, so you've decided that you LOVE the track and you now want to add a track-only bike to your stable.

What are the next things you start thinking about?
What is a reasonable price range?
Does age of the bike matter?
What are some of the warning signs to lookout for?
What NOT to do?

Any other advice is helpful!

[triplestack3]

Okay, so you've decided that you LOVE the track and you now want to add a track-only bike to your stable.

What are the next things you start thinking about?
What is a reasonable price range?
Does age of the bike matter?
What are some of the warning signs to lookout for?
What NOT to do?

Any other advice is helpful!

1. think about a truck and trailer :fawkdance ready to give up the street? can you get away with only riding on the track once a month, maybe twice if you're lucky? transporting the bike to and from the track is the biggest problem most of the time.

2. reasonable depends. my personal spending limit is about $5000 for a bike that i am essentially "throwing away" you have to assume the bike will get crashed or stolen. how bad will you feel about that? at least you can get some money back from parting a bike out, so if it's a $3500 bike that you crashed, it won't be that bad of a loss.

3. age of the bike matters. newer bikes have better suspension, better brakes, and better chassis. this leads to a more enjoyable riding experience and there is somewhat of a safety factor involved depending on how fast you ride. there are some newer bikes that are out there that are totally hammered, so you have to do a good job evaluating the bike.

4. warning signs... see how much duct tape is on the bike :fawkdance usually guys who have more spares for the bike took better care of it and replaced things when they got worn out or damaged. at the very least, you will have extra parts to fix it. always assume that you will have to spend $500 to get the bike trackworthy, even if it looks clean. be sure to check the title status too. lots of salvage bikes that people try to overcharge for.

5. buy from someone you trust/know/see on a regular basis. don't fall in love with a used bike - they are a dime a dozen. always assume the seller is lying about the service history of the bike.

[Da Baddest Mofo]

Buy something that's already built. At the very least it should have steel brake lines and both front and rear suspension (the most expensive mod). The first step you'd have to do would be changing the springs to set the correct sag. I bought mine for $5500 as I remember. It has everything. The best place to look is racers (WSMC, WERA, etc.) forums. Don't buy just plain street bike with track plastics.

[trackpimp]

Okay, so you've decided that you LOVE the track and you now want to add a track-only bike to your stable.

What are the next things you start thinking about?
What is a reasonable price range?
Does age of the bike matter?
What are some of the warning signs to lookout for?
What NOT to do?

Any other advice is helpful!


I'd think about how far you'd like to go with the track thing. Are you going to be a Trackday-Slut, or a full-on Ricky-Racer?

Reasonable price range is relative to what you're looking for. If you get a "last year's" Factory 600 the reasonable price would be different than buying some dudes used SV.

I believe age does matter. The older the bike is, IMHO at least, the harder it is to find parts for.

Look over the bike really well.. possibly have a mechanic friend go with you to look at the bike. I'd look for cracks in the engine cases, re-weld jobs on the steering stops/frame head-stock.. Also check the mounting tabs on the frame where the rearsets go.

Don't turn a bike away just because it had been previously crashed. If you're biking a used Race/Track bike.. Chances are its been crashed.

[SilverSurfer]

What are the next things you start thinking about?

How the frock am I going to pay for all this? (lol)

What is a reasonable price range?

Depends. Are you going to race or just do track days. That matters.

Does age of the bike matter?

Same as above.

What are some of the warning signs to lookout for?

Salvaged title or not. Cracked or bent frame, mechanical parts not well kept, etc.

What NOT to do?

Buy on a whim.
Buy outside your price range (stick to it!)
Buy a track bike from any motorcycle dealer (pay cash if at all possible).
Do not buy without testing the bike out to some degree. Have someone with good mechanical knowledge go with you.

DO:
Have the VIN # checked.
Research the history of the bike if possible (if it was raced, you should be able to check MyLaps or something similar to see the race history)
If possible, have someone who's been racing run a few laps on the bike. They can tell you if it's in good shape.

Basically, follow all the dos and don'ts of buying a new vehicle. Just remember, a track back is essentially a toy so unless you're prepared to drop the big bucks on a new toy, buy a used track beater. You're going to dump it eventually (we all do!).

[j3rmz]

Buy mine! Make me an offer!

'04 cbr 600rr. Previous owner was our one and only Rudy Zman Messican!

[badmonkey]

Okay, so you've decided that you LOVE the track and you now want to add a track-only bike to your stable.

What are the next things you start thinking about?
What is a reasonable price range?
Does age of the bike matter?
What are some of the warning signs to lookout for?
What NOT to do?

Any other advice is helpful!

1. Transport. Though you have plenty of people to get rides from local to the south bay.

2. Reasonable price range is 5k or less in my book. Especially if it's a no-title/s-title/non rebuild-title bike. What you have to consider is, how hard will this thing be to sell? How much can you comfortably write-off if the thing is completely destroyed? Track bikes are hard to sell, which means you get hosed on your price. Street bikes are easier to sell and often sell for a lot more. Which means, bikes with street parts, and non-hacked wiring harnesses are worth more than those without.

3. I don't think age of bike matters as much as brand and model. There will never be a shortage of parts for 04-09 gsxr parts. It won't be hard to find parts for a 03-09 600rr. Same applies to 03-09 R6. All 3 of these bikes generally have so many available spares and bikes being parted out that it's easy to find even exotic stuff. And usually for cheap. The flip side of that is, finding a set of forks for a daytona can be hard--they pop up once every 2 months or so, and aren't cheap and tend to be in high demand.

4. Warning signs depend on the bike. A few general constants are: frame damage: bent, rashed, cracked; engine block/head damage: think of Allenchang's z1000 which came with a jb-welded crack in the block. Everything else is fixable in my opinion. esp if you've got one of the bikes I mentioned above.

5. Do not fall in love with a bike that has mods that you don't need. As much as I'd like a AMA-SS matsushima gsxr1000, I know I don't need a race built motor and showa forks. However--don't pay too much for a stock bike and not consider the cost of mods--suspension build = $1400, steering damper = $250, other assorted mods = $500-2000. So factor that into your price and your potential resale price, accounting for utility, value, and liquidity.

[HurricaneGirl]

Ooooo, you guys are awesome. Transport is one of my biggest issues. Although I've always managed to get to the track, it's not without some sort of discomfort...just in even asking for help. It seems some of you out there are eager to help, but I can't help but feel awkward in asking for it. I'm always willing to put up cash, breakfast, gas, whatever, but still can't help but feel weird about it. Oh well. lol

Thanks for the advice...I gotz some reading and contemplating to do!!! :thumb

[chiquita100]

just my .02 on it from what i've learned on the subject so far... i'd say think about your long-term goals, to just enjoy track days with friends on a routine basis, a couple more track days this year and then full-on racing? if you're only to get one track bike for the short-term, should it be street & track day capable? or should it be track dedicated with racing in mind? cost is a determinant for sure, but you want the best bike for the money that's suited to your capabilities and goals. transport is an issue, but there are always ways to get to the track, you can rent a truck or van for that matter, or pick up a cheapie truck somewhere given the economy. good luck!

[lost nomad]

I constantly think about spare parts I'm gonna or might need.

track only bike for your stable, as in dedicated track bike + your current street bike? if so you may want to consider a salvaged title bike since you can usually find them cheaper.

[Globetrotter]

Buy mine! Make me an offer!

'04 cbr 600rr. Previous owner was our one and only Rudy Zman Messican!

Winner! Your problem is solved, Genie. :freakon

[HurricaneGirl]

Yea...will keep the street bike...but eventually sell the street bike and buy a newer and better street bike...and have the track bike too.


Cuz I'm a balla like dat.

[Indetrucks]

Ooooo, you guys are awesome. Transport is one of my biggest issues. Although I've always managed to get to the track, it's not without some sort of discomfort...just in even asking for help. It seems some of you out there are eager to help, but I can't help but feel awkward in asking for it. I'm always willing to put up cash, breakfast, gas, whatever, but still can't help but feel weird about it. Oh well. lol

Thanks for the advice...I gotz some reading and contemplating to do!!! :thumb

I can't wait for AD to get a big truck!! WOOT!!!
Tundra is gone next month and my lil Tacoma wont haul two.

I never understood how people can own bikes but not have a truck?
Oh well.. guess if you got a really nice friend willing to put the miles on his ride.. why not?
Would you buy the cow if the milk was free?

[HurricaneGirl]

Even if I DID have a truck, I couldn't get the bike in it without killing myself or the bike. :doh

[OldnReallySlow]

I had a truck until a work truck decided he liked my lane better than his!!! Now, I beg a ride or rent a truck to go!

[Research Monkey]

Buy something that's already built. At the very least it should have steel brake lines and both front and rear suspension (the most expensive mod). The first step you'd have to do would be changing the springs to set the correct sag. I bought mine for $5500 as I remember. It has everything. The best place to look is racers (WSMC, WERA, etc.) forums. Don't buy just plain street bike with track plastics.

I disagree. A bone stock bike with track plastics is a great start. Mitch is fast as hell on his bone stock 07 CBR w/ track plastics (he might have lines, i don't know) running in A group. My bike has everything but engine internals and i'm sitting in B still :)

[Research Monkey]

I just remembered, doesn't twisty have an 08 CBR600 for sale for 4k w/ sharkskins and lines? Thats an incredible price! Who cares if you can't register it, its track only :)

[Orguss]

I disagree. A bone stock bike with track plastics is a great start. Mitch is fast as hell on his bone stock 07 CBR w/ track plastics (he might have lines, i don't know) running in A group. My bike has everything but engine internals and i'm sitting in B still :)

Yep, I can contest to that, Mitch let me rode his bike for a few sessions at BW, my almost 1st time at that track. I love his setup, I got comfortable after the 2nd sessions, then he put on the lap timer and I did 2:18, not bad for a fooker who doesnt ride that much:naughty2:fawkdance

[triplestack3]

I disagree. A bone stock bike with track plastics is a great start. Mitch is fast as hell on his bone stock 07 CBR w/ track plastics (he might have lines, i don't know) running in A group. My bike has everything but engine internals and i'm sitting in B still :)

I disagree with your disagree

Starting with a bone stock bike means that it has stock suspension, stock brakes, stock gearing, etc. You can get a nicely setup bike for the same price as an all stock motorcycle. Why deny yourself some free goodies? At the very least, you can sell the aftermarket stuff and get stock bits for even cheaper if you're hell bent on all stock.

[Research Monkey]

I disagree with your disagree

Starting with a bone stock bike means that it has stock suspension, stock brakes, stock gearing, etc. You can get a nicely setup bike for the same price as an all stock motorcycle. Why deny yourself some free goodies? At the very least, you can sell the aftermarket stuff and get stock bits for even cheaper if you're hell bent on all stock.

True, guess it comes to best bang for your buck right? Whatever the better deal is. I was just trying to point out that you can get A group times with a pretty much stock bike.

[badmonkey]

True, guess it comes to best bang for your buck right? Whatever the better deal is. I was just trying to point out that you can get A group times with a pretty much stock bike.

I guess it depends on whether you're a serial modder or not, and what mods you're planning.

Still, if you can get a suspension that's set up for your riding weight, or adjustable to work for you (and stock will not) that's a bonus. Then again, if you weigh 210 and the bike you're buying is setup for a 140 lb rider, at least you can sell the components to finance your new suspension.

Most of these bikes we ride kick our asses in stock condition, but that doesn't mean we can't make em faster anyway :naughty2

[John]

I think the only mods I would absolutely want in a track bike are track plastics. I wouldn't want a built motor because I'm absolutely clueless with a wrench. Given that, if a bike comes with goodies like suspension, rear sets, exhaust, gearing, etc and its in my price range, I'm not going to discriminate against it. Given my pace and my weight, I don't need any of it either. If you don't weight 200 lbs, I think the stock suspension is fine. So track plastic is a must for me, nothing else really matters in the way of accessories.

And of course, people have already mentioned the bike being in good working order and blah blah blah.

Regarding old v. new, I have a lot of fun on my old '02 R6. But yeah, it's getting harder and harder to find parts for. If you want the greatest abundance of parts, my money's on a 03-04 R6. You could probably get a pretty tricked out track bike for like $4K and they still build them!

Good luck!

[Priapism]

Ooooo, you guys are awesome. Transport is one of my biggest issues.

Meh, just buy a ramp (~100) and rent pickups from Enterprise. Or a cargo van.

[Orguss]

hmmm...so how about an older duc like 916, 996, and 998? Those too old for you guys, considering how majority are saying get newer. I'm currently window shopping on an older Duc, I'm not going to ride hard on the track...just a fun ride and possiblely for advertising, ahh not photography tho...something else.

[Nocontrol]

If it is your first track bike, buy something cheap, you would be surprised. Just make sure I don't find it first. :fawkdance

I bought an 01 SV650 that was already wired, pretty much ready to go on the track with a new set of tires. $700, no frame damage or any major damage for that matter. Something like that you can afford to toss and beat the crap out of, 5k is a LOT to spend on a first track bike.

[Nocontrol]

hmmm...so how about an older duc like 916, 996, and 998? Those too old for you guys, considering how majority are saying get newer. I'm currently window shopping on an older Duc, I'm not going to ride hard on the track...just a fun ride and possiblely for advertising, ahh not photography tho...something else.

I think there are better bikes for less money for the track...

[SilverSurfer]

I think the only must haves on a track (not race) bike are:

Track Plastics
Steel brake lines
Aftermarket race brake pads
Rearsets (and that's a maybe)

Suspension on most stock bikes today is more than adequate for the average track day rider. Unless you're racing and looking to shave a few seconds off your lap time, don't bother. I never needed to change out the suspension on my 05 600RR. It was perfectly suited to my weight and my style. If I was worried about lap times I would have bought Ohlins or something. It's not really necessary though. As long as you have the suspension set up for your style and weight you should be fine. It's when people go out and spend gobs on suspension bits and don't get them set up properly that bad things happen (just ask my collar bone, lol).

[HurricaneGirl]

Good point...and I'm fairly light, so I doubt I'd max out the capabilities of any stock (or near stock) suspension.

[Priapism]

Good point...and I'm fairly light, so I doubt I'd max out the capabilities of any stock (or near stock) suspension.

That's not really the issue, a spring for your weight will just work so much better. My 675's spring was way too stiff for my weight. Changing the spring absolutely transformed the bike--though the 675 is famous for a crap rear spring. SS is 180 lbs IIRC, which is bog-standard average, so the spring for a standard / average rider would suit him perfectly. It's harder when you're lighter or heavier than average--as we are...

[bertocci]

Meh, just buy a ramp (~100) and rent pickups from Enterprise. Or a cargo van.

Cargo van all the way. That's what I did for my last trackday and it's a million times easier and more convenient than a truck.

[Priapism]

Cargo van all the way. That's what I did for my last trackday and it's a million times easier and more convenient than a truck.

It is. Plus you can park it on the street and nobody knows you have $16k worth of motorcycle in there for the taking. But pickups look so much cooler :udontsay

[badmonkey]

Good point...and I'm fairly light, so I doubt I'd max out the capabilities of any stock (or near stock) suspension.

I think if you're close to the "intended" weight from the factory, which is probably about 160 lbs, stock springs/valving will work well.

if you're 20 lbs heavier or lighter, you're better off getting the suspension done.

it's rideable, yeah, but it's so much more fun when you're not fighting your suspension constantly. I remember the first day I rode my 750 at BW w/ stock suspension--the bike just wouldn't work for me. It would sail at corner exit under power, it would try to buck me off through the bumpy bits, on top of the ungodly power--once i threw an ohlins on it it transformed the bike.

[j3rmz]

Buy mine! Make me an offer!

'04 cbr 600rr. Previous owner was our one and only Rudy Zman Messican!

Winner! Your problem is solved, Genie. :freakon

No? Eh o well, I tried.

[Globetrotter]

Sorry Jermz...I tried too.

[HurricaneGirl]

I sent a PM...need more info. Tanx fer lookin out boyz!!! :kiss

[Globetrotter]

I think the only must haves on a track (not race) bike are:

Track Plastics
Steel brake lines
Aftermarket race brake pads
Rearsets (and that's a maybe)



Track plastics isn't necessarily a must have, especially if you're going to pound this bike into the ground anyway. For a while I ran my SV with the stock plastics and just took out the head/brake lights. My bike was basically stock other than that, including plastics. Of course, I eventually spent way more money than i should have making it race worthy, but if racing isn't in your future, the definition of "track bike" is incredibly simple IMO.

[Davey Cracker]

Track plastics isn't necessarily a must have, especially if you're going to pound this bike into the ground anyway. For a while I ran my SV with the stock plastics and just took out the head/brake lights. My bike was basically stock other than that, including plastics. Of course, I eventually spent way more money than i should have making it race worthy, but if racing isn't in your future, the definition of "track bike" is incredibly simple IMO.


word1

A stock bike with some descent tires is all you really need...........seemed to work for me anyways, for a long time.

[bertocci]

It is. Plus you can park it on the street and nobody knows you have $16k worth of motorcycle in there for the taking. But pickups look so much cooler :udontsay

I don't know. A cargo van with a "free candy" sign looks pretty damn cool to me.:lmfao

[Asian Dave]

word1

A stock bike with some descent tires is all you really need...........seemed to work for me anyways, for a long time.

No descent tires. You need RACE tires!

[HurricaneGirl]

I dun need no racer tyres